Into the Timeless Landscapes of Mustang

Guest blog by Nalanda Joglekar

Arrival in Nepal

As soon as Shikha announced her group adventure trip to Mustang, I signed up without hesitation. Mustang is not easy to access, and tourism in the region is heavily regulated. It felt right to go with someone who knew the terrain well and understood how to move responsibly through such landscapes.

Our group of eight gathered in Kathmandu, arriving on different flights from India. We were an eclectic mix. There was our capable guide team, a mystic healer, a fossil hunter and her partner, an aunt and niece travelling together, and then Nafisa and me, slightly adventure-hardened and ready for whatever lay ahead. From Kathmandu, we headed to the domestic airport for our onward journey to Pokhara.

Pokhara held memories for me. This was where I had attempted my first triathlon and gone wild swimming in remote lakes. On our first day there, we were rewarded with clear views of Machapuchare, the iconic Fish Tail peak. Being back in the land of mountains felt grounding.

Entering Mustang

As we drove deeper into Nepal, Kalopani became our gateway into Mustang. The smooth asphalt roads slowly disappeared, replaced by muddy, rocky tracks as we left Pokhara behind. After a lunch stop at Dana, we continued onward, and soon the snow-capped peaks of the Himalaya began to dominate the horizon.

The Dhaulagiri massif revealed itself in full glory, led by the towering Mt. Dhaulagiri. These peaks would accompany us for much of the journey. That evening, we reached Kalopani, quietly marking our entry into Mustang.

Marpha, the Lost Paradise of Mustang

The next day, we drove into Jomsom, a lively town with an airport. This was where signs celebrating Mustang’s famous apples began appearing everywhere. Apples in every form imaginable were on display. Fresh apples, cider, dried apples, apple rum, jams, and preserves filled shop shelves.

Later that day, our vehicles stopped at a stone arch. Stepping through it felt like walking into another era. The place reminded me of Fez in Morocco, an ancient town where time seems to pause. In Marpha, it felt as though time had simply stopped touching the place altogether.

Wood and stone houses lined cobbled alleys. Small shops welcomed passersby, and people greeted us with warmth. It felt like paradise of a different kind.

We wandered through the village, sampling dried apples that tasted like caramel candy, sweet and earthy and impossible to stop at just one. Our guide Shiva gently reminded us to save our appetites for lunch. Soon after, we were invited into a local home for a hot meal, one of the loveliest lunches of the entire trip.

Paradise, Found Again

As we continued walking through Marpha, a sign caught our attention. “Apple Paradise,” it read. The smell drifting from the tiny bakery made it impossible to walk past.

We exchanged glances, silently waiting to see who would give in first. None of us resisted for long.

Inside, a kind woman served us doughnuts, apple crumble, and coffee. By the time we finished, her display was empty and we were completely full. It felt like we had stumbled into another version of heaven.

We invited her to sit with us for a photo. Her dog, determined not to be left out, leapt into the frame, howling his protest before settling in. Shiva eventually tracked us down and declared it was time to move on. We were gently but firmly marched back to the waiting cars and made our way to Kagbeni later that evening, tired and content.

Till We Meet Again, Nepal

This journey with Snowfox Escapes to Mustang marked my return to adventure after a two-year break. I was not in peak condition, but the mountains welcomed me back without judgment. My pace did not matter. My racing heartbeat did not matter. What mattered was that I was there again, walking, breathing, and feeling present.

Sometimes, that is enough.

About the Author

Nalanda loves being outdoors and has completed numerous long-distance treks, including a 1,000 km walk across the Gobi Desert in Mongolia. She joined Snowfox Escapes as a guest traveller on the Mustang journey and shares her reflections through this story.